In the center of an old Roman grid, in the center of town, Lucca’s famous San Michele stands to welcome it’s visitors. Located on the site of an ancient Roman forum, San Michele has the “wow” value when you come around the corner to greet it!
This church is located where the action is in Lucca, surrounded by the large Piazza San Michele-on weekends you can find street performers, flower markets, art exhibits, musicians…and of course several coffee bars.
The church dates as far back as the 700’s but has had work done throughout the 11th and 13th centuries. It is a perfect example of Romanesque and Pisan style, and the facade is what makes it so amazing. First of all, it is MUCH taller than the church structure itself. Like so many other projects, the money ran out so the church never reached the grand scale it originally intended. If you look at the church from the side you wonder how it even stays in place…it seems a bit too tall and off balance.
The marble loggias (small column like features) are multicolored marble and make the structure very interesting. Not one is alike-some look like candy canes, others are carved and ornate with large series of sculptures and inlays. Unlike most churches, the carvings and busts on facade are not biblical or mythical people but actual people of that era. There are also marble inlaid above the loggias of creatures that are jumping, fighting, biting. I have no idea what all that means.
Atop the church stands the Archangel Michele for which the church is named. The copper wings are hinged allowing them to move in the wind if needed. According to legend, Michele keeps the city of Lucca safe. There is also a ring on the finger of Michele which suppossedly has a jewel in it…if the sun hits it just right and you are lucky enough to see the jewel sparkel, you are destined for good luck!
One disturbing feature is the staircase that leads up the back of the facade??? There is a handrail only on one side..who climbs up there? Do they wear a safety belt? I look every time I walk by wondering if anyone ever actually climbs those steps…scary! Of course, San Michele has a lovely campanile (Bell Tower), and you can visit the inside during the weekdays for free. The interior is lovely, very classy and not too overdone. There are a few worthy noted art pieces inside by Lippi, Civitali and Rabbia’s “Madonna with child”.
I never get tired of taking pictures of San Michele and visiting the square. There is always something interesting to see or just sit and people watch!
San Michele atop the church.
Music in the Piazza San Michele.
Close up of the loggias….
Lovely Lucca street of the piazza…
Inside the church…
